RV De-Winterization Checklist — Spring Startup, Step by Step

Flush out the antifreeze

Reconnect water lines, close low-point drains, reinstall the water-heater drain plug/anode Wrap the plug threads with fresh Teflon tape. Inspect the anode rod and replace it if heavily consumed.
Return the water-heater bypass to NORMAL flow The single most forgotten spring step — the symptom is cold showers and an "empty" hot tap.
Fill the fresh tank part-way (or connect regulated city water)
Run every fixture — cold then hot — until water runs clear with no pink tint Kitchen, bath sink, shower, outdoor shower, toilet, sprayers. Antifreeze is non-toxic but tastes terrible.
Flush the toilet repeatedly and rinse the bowl seal
Reinstall water filter cartridges only AFTER all antifreeze is flushed

Sanitize the fresh water system

Mix ¼ cup plain household bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity, diluted into a gallon of water This is the standard quarter-cup-per-15-gallons sanitizing ratio used across the industry. Never pour straight bleach into the tank.
Add the solution to the fresh tank and fill with potable water
Pump the solution to every fixture until you smell chlorine, then close taps
Let it sit at least 4 hours (overnight is better), ideally driving briefly to slosh the tank
Drain completely, refill with fresh water, and flush until no chlorine smell remains Repeat the fill-and-flush once more if the smell lingers.

Pressure-test and hunt for leaks

Pressurize the system with the pump, then turn the pump OFF and listen A pump that cycles on by itself with all taps closed means the system is losing pressure — you have a leak.
Inspect every visible fitting, the pump head, toilet valve and city-water inlet Cracked pump heads and toilet valves are the two most common freeze casualties.
Fill and heat the water heater, then check the drain plug and pressure-relief valve for drips Confirm the tank is FULL before switching the electric element on.
Check under sinks, inside the wet bay and along the underbelly for moisture after an hour under pressure

Batteries & electrical

Reinstall batteries; clean terminals and check charge/voltage Charge to full before the first trip. Flooded batteries: top up cells with distilled water.
Plug into shore power via your surge protector and confirm the converter/charger works
Test 12V systems: lights, fans, slides, jacks, tongue jack
Test 120V appliances: air conditioner, microwave, outlets (use a plug-in tester)
Replace smoke/CO/propane detector batteries and test all three detectors Detectors also have expiry dates printed on the back — propane detectors typically last 5–7 years.

Propane & appliances

Inspect propane lines and connections, then open the tank valve slowly
Leak-test connections with soapy water — bubbles mean a leak Never hunt for a propane leak with a flame. If you smell gas continuously, close the tank and have the system checked professionally.
Light the stove first to purge air from the lines
Test the furnace, water heater (propane mode) and fridge (propane mode)

Exterior, tires & road readiness

Inspect the roof and all seals; reseal anything cracked before the rainy season
Remove vent covers/tire covers; open windows and air the rig out
Check tires: set to placard pressure, inspect sidewalls for cracking, check date codes RV tires age out before they wear out — most manufacturers recommend replacement at 5–7 years regardless of tread.
Check wheel bearings/repack schedule and test the breakaway switch (towables)
Look for rodent evidence: droppings, chewed wires, nests in the furnace or engine bay
Run the generator under load for 30 minutes after checking its oil
Wash the exterior, update your registration/insurance paperwork, and restock the rig Now run the packing checklist — the first trip of the season is when forgotten gear shows up.

RV De-Winterization Checklist — printed from HitchList. Progress saved online; reprint any time.

Frequently asked questions

How do I get antifreeze out of my RV water system?

Reconnect everything, return the water-heater bypass to normal, fill the fresh tank, and run each fixture until the water is completely clear — cold side then hot side. Finish with a bleach sanitize (¼ cup per 15 gallons of tank capacity, 4+ hours dwell, then flush) and the taste will be gone too.

Do I really need to sanitize the fresh water tank every spring?

Yes. The system sat for months with damp low spots — ideal conditions for bacteria and biofilm. The standard method is cheap and easy: ¼ cup of plain unscented bleach per 15 gallons of tank capacity, pumped to every tap, left at least 4 hours, then flushed until the smell is gone. Sanitize any time the water smells off or the rig sat unused for weeks.

Why is there no hot water after de-winterizing?

Almost always the water-heater bypass valve is still in the winter position, so cold water is skipping the tank entirely. Flip the bypass back to normal, refill the tank (run the hot tap until it flows steadily), and only then turn the heater on — an electric element fired in an empty tank burns out immediately.

When should I de-winterize my RV?

Once overnight temperatures in your area reliably stay above freezing — typically 2–4 weeks before your first trip so you have time to fix whatever winter broke. If a late cold snap threatens after you have de-winterized, running the furnace or opening cabinet doors to let heat reach plumbing is usually enough protection overnight.