RV Campsite Setup Checklist — Arrival Steps in the Right Order

Scout the site before parking

Walk the site first: locate power, water and sewer connections Park so your utility bay lands near the hookups — hoses and cords are shorter than you remember.
Look up for low branches and check overall clearance
Check ground: slope, soft spots, debris, sprinkler heads
Plan slide-out and awning space on both sides Trees, posts and the neighbor’s tow vehicle all count. Slides need 3+ feet.
Decide your final position and use a spotter to park Agree on hand signals before backing. A cheap pair of walkie-talkies saves marriages.

Position, level and chock

Position the rig, then check side-to-side level first Use a bubble level or your phone; correct side-to-side with leveling blocks under the low-side wheels before unhitching.
Chock the wheels firmly — both sides on any slope Chock before unhitching, always. This is the single most important arrival step for towables.
Unhitch: tongue jack down, weight-distribution bars off, chains and 7-pin off Motorhomes skip this — set the parking brake and deploy leveling jacks instead.
Level front-to-back with the tongue jack or auto-levelers Absorption refrigerators must run close to level to avoid permanent damage.
Lower stabilizer jacks onto pads until snug — not lifting Stabilizers stop bounce; they are not leveling jacks. Cranking the rig up on them bends the frame mounts.

Electrical hookup

Test the pedestal with a polarity/voltage tester before plugging in An open ground or hot-neutral swap can energize your whole rig’s skin. A $15 tester or your surge protector’s diagnostic does this in seconds.
Turn the pedestal breaker OFF before connecting
Plug in through a surge protector / EMS unit Pedestal wiring quality varies wildly; an EMS with low-voltage cutoff protects air conditioners and electronics.
Use the correct adapter (30A vs 50A) — never force a fit See our 30-amp vs 50-amp guide if you are unsure what your rig takes.
Switch the pedestal breaker on, then verify voltage inside Healthy shore power reads roughly 108–132V. Below ~105V, protect your A/C and ask the office about it.
Switch the refrigerator to shore power / auto mode

Water hookup

Attach a pressure regulator at the spigot Campground pressure can spike past 100 PSI; RV plumbing is typically rated for 40–60 PSI. The regulator goes on the spigot, not the rig, so the hose is protected too.
Flush the spigot briefly before connecting your hose Clears grit and whatever the last camper’s hose left behind.
Connect a drinking-water-safe hose (white/blue), with filter if you use one Garden hoses leach chemicals and taste like it. Keep a dedicated fresh-water hose that never touches sewer duty.
Open the spigot slowly and check every connection for drips
Confirm the water heater bypass is open and the tank is full BEFORE turning the heater on Firing an electric element in an empty tank destroys it in seconds. Run the hot tap until water flows steadily, then switch the heater on.
Leave the water pump off while on city water

Sewer hookup (full-hookup sites)

Glove up; connect the sewer hose to the rig outlet first, then the site inlet Use the donut/seal at the campground inlet where required.
Support the hose on a slinky-style support with continuous fall toward the inlet
Keep the BLACK valve closed — dump it only when ⅔ full Leaving the black valve open lets liquid drain off and solids build into a clog. Gray can be left cracked open or closed until needed.
Add treatment and a few gallons of water to the black tank after dumping

Camp comfort & final checks

Extend slide-outs after confirming clearance inside and out
Deploy awning if weather allows — and never leave it out unattended in wind Wind gusts destroy more awnings than hail. Retract it when you leave for the day.
Deploy entry steps and put down an outdoor mat
Set up propane appliances: open tank valve, light or auto-start as needed
Test smoke, CO and propane detectors Thirty seconds that actually matters. Replace detector batteries yearly.
Note the site’s quiet hours, wifi info and emergency contacts
Do a final drip check on all water connections after 15 minutes

RV Campsite Setup Checklist — printed from HitchList. Progress saved online; reprint any time.

Frequently asked questions

What order should I hook up my RV at a campsite?

Scout the site, position the rig, level side-to-side, chock, unhitch, level front-to-back, stabilize — then utilities: test and connect power first, then water (through a pressure regulator), then sewer. Slides and awning come last, after the rig is stable and powered.

Do I really need a surge protector for my RV?

Yes. Campground pedestals suffer from worn receptacles, miswiring and low voltage during peak demand. A portable EMS (electrical management system) with surge and low-voltage protection costs far less than one rooftop air conditioner, which is exactly what chronic low voltage kills.

Should I leave my black tank valve open at a full-hookup site?

No. Keep the black valve closed and dump when the tank is about two-thirds full so the flush has enough liquid volume to carry solids out. An always-open black valve drains liquids continuously and lets solids accumulate into a blockage RVers call the "poop pyramid."

What PSI should my RV water pressure regulator be set to?

Most RV plumbing is rated for 40–60 PSI, so a regulator preset to 40–50 PSI is the safe default. Adjustable regulators with a gauge let you run 50–55 PSI for better shower flow while staying under the danger zone. Always install the regulator at the spigot so the hose is protected too.

Why shouldn’t I level my RV with the stabilizer jacks?

Stabilizer jacks are designed only to stop the rig from rocking once it is already level. Using them to lift the frame concentrates the trailer’s weight on mounting points that were never engineered for it, bending jacks and tweaking the frame. Level with blocks or a leveling system first, then snug the stabilizers down.