RV Storage Checklist — Prep for Weeks or Months Off the Road

Tanks & plumbing

Dump and thoroughly rinse black and gray tanks Use a wand or built-in flush until rinse water runs clear. Waste stored for months hardens and permanently confuses tank sensors.
Drain the fresh tank and water heater; leave the system empty Standing water grows biofilm even without freezing. You will sanitize on wake-up either way — store dry.
Add a little water plus treatment to toilet bowl seals
Close gray/black valves and cap the outlet
If any freeze risk exists during storage: complete the full winterization checklist

Kitchen & interior

Remove ALL food — cans, spices, pet food, the granola bar in the couch To a mouse, a sealed cracker box is an invitation with RSVP. Nothing edible stays.
Defrost, clean and dry the fridge/freezer; prop doors open
Take out trash, wipe counters, vacuum crumbs from drawers and under cushions
Remove bedding, towels and damp-prone textiles (or stand cushions on edge)
Place moisture absorbers in kitchen, bath and bedroom; crack cabinet doors
Close blinds/shades against UV; crack a roof vent with a vent cover if secure
Turn off the propane at the tank; ensure pilots are out
Remove valuables, documents and anything that melts (candles, electronics in summer heat) Interior temps in a parked rig can exceed 140 °F in summer sun.

Electrical & batteries

Switch off the battery disconnect — or better, remove batteries for long storage Parasitic drains (detectors, stereo memory, steps) flatten a battery in weeks. A flat lead-acid battery sulfates and loses capacity permanently.
Store batteries fully charged on a maintainer, in a cool dry space Lithium banks: store around 50–60% charge per manufacturer guidance instead.
Unplug all interior electronics and inverters
If storing plugged in: verify the converter is a smart/multi-stage charger Old single-stage converters boil batteries dry over months.
Exercise the generator monthly under load, or fog/stabilize per its manual

Exterior, tires & chassis

Wash and dry the rig; inspect roof and seals, reseal cracks now Dirt holds moisture against seals, and a storage lot is where slow leaks go unnoticed the longest.
Inflate tires to placard pressure; cover them or park off bare ground UV and ground moisture age rubber. Plank/pad under each tire beats gravel and grass.
Chock wheels; on trailers, take tension off the parking brake per your manual
Retract stabilizers slightly off full pressure but leave the rig stable
Fill fuel tank and add stabilizer; run engine/generator briefly to circulate
Close and lock all windows, vents (or vent-covered crack), bays and doors
Fit a breathable RV cover if outdoors — never a plastic tarp
Photograph the rig and note odometer/condition for insurance

Pest defense

Seal gaps where plumbing/wiring enters the floor and walls (steel wool + sealant) Mice pass through dime-sized holes. The wet bay and under-sink penetrations are the usual doors.
Cover exterior openings: furnace exhaust/intake, water heater vent, sewer hose bay Purpose-made screens exist for furnace and water-heater vents; wasps love both.
Set traps or rodent deterrents inside; note locations for retrieval
Skip mothballs and poison baits inside the rig Mothball fumes soak into upholstery, and poisoned rodents die in your walls. Traps and exclusion beat both.
Clear the parking area of brush and standing junk that shelters rodents

Monthly check-in (10 minutes that saves thousands)

Walk around and under: new leaks, low tires, cover chafing, critter signs
Check inside for water intrusion after storms and for pest evidence
Verify battery maintainer status / state of charge
Air out the interior for a few minutes; check moisture absorbers
Move the rig a foot or two if possible (tire flat spots), or at least re-check pressures
Run the generator under load 30 minutes if it stores with the rig

RV Storage Checklist — printed from HitchList. Progress saved online; reprint any time.

Frequently asked questions

Should I store my RV with the tanks empty or full?

Empty — all of them. Waste tanks should be dumped and rinsed until clear, and the fresh tank and water heater drained, because standing water grows biofilm and stored waste hardens onto sensors. The only water left in the rig should be a cup in the toilet bowl to keep the seal from drying (with freeze protection if applicable).

Should I leave my RV plugged in during storage?

Only if the converter/charger is a modern multi-stage ("smart") unit that can float the batteries safely, and the storage facility allows it. Otherwise, the safer routine is removing the batteries to a cool dry place on a battery maintainer. Old single-stage converters left plugged in for months overcharge flooded batteries and boil the electrolyte out.

How do I keep mice out of a stored RV?

Exclusion first: seal every gap where plumbing and wiring penetrate the floor with steel wool and sealant, screen the furnace and appliance vents, and remove every trace of food. Then set traps as a backstop and check them monthly. Skip mothballs (the smell outlasts the mice) and poison (they die in the walls). Parking away from brush piles helps more than any repellent.

Is covered storage worth it for an RV?

If the alternative is open outdoor storage, usually yes over the long run: UV is the main ager of roofs, seals, tires and paint, and covered or indoor storage slows all of it. Where covered storage isn’t available or costs too much, a quality breathable RV cover plus tire covers capture much of the benefit for a few hundred dollars — never a plastic tarp, which traps moisture and grinds the finish.