Used RV Inspection Checklist — Find Water Damage Before You Buy

Water damage hunt (do this first)

Scan ceilings and wall corners for stains, ripples or fresh paint patches One suspiciously new panel in an old interior is a repair — ask what happened and expect documentation.
Press on floors everywhere, especially around the toilet, shower, slides and entry Soft or spongy spots mean rotted subfloor. Walk every square foot; sellers park rugs over the bad spots.
Sight down exterior walls for delamination (bubbling/waviness in fiberglass) Stand at the front corner and look down the side in the light. Delamination means the wall’s layers have separated — a structural moisture repair, not cosmetic.
Open every cabinet and sniff — musty smell is water damage talking Odor is the cheapest moisture meter there is. Air fresheners in every room are a signal, not hospitality.
Check around every window frame, roof vent and skylight for stains or soft wall
Look inside exterior storage bays for rust lines, water marks or wet insulation
Inspect mattress undersides and under-bed storage for mildew

Roof & seals

Get on the roof (with permission) or use a ladder to see the whole surface If a seller refuses roof access on a rig they claim is sound, treat it as a finding.
Check membrane condition: tears, bubbles, chalking, previous patch jobs
Inspect every seam and penetration: A/C, vents, antenna, skylights, front/rear caps Cracked or lifting lap sealant is normal aging but tells you maintenance frequency. Ask when it was last resealed.
Check awning fabric for tears and dry rot; run it out and back
Inspect window and door seals; look for flexible, intact gaskets
Underneath: look for a sagging or torn underbelly, rusted frame, damaged tanks

Tires, brakes & running gear

Read the tire date codes (DOT week/year) — over 5–7 years means budget replacement RV tires age out, not wear out. A 2018 date code with "great tread" is still a set of tires due for replacement — roughly $1,500–$3,000 on bigger rigs. Negotiate accordingly.
Check sidewalls for cracking/weather checking, and confirm matching sizes
Look for uneven tread wear (alignment or axle issues on trailers)
Ask for wheel bearing service records (trailers: repack roughly annually/12k miles)
Inspect visible brake components and breakaway switch on towables
Test stabilizer/leveling jacks through a full cycle
Motorhomes: cold-start the engine, check for smoke, scan fluids, look for leaks under the bay Consider a separate mechanical inspection for the chassis — an RV inspector and a diesel mechanic are different trades.

Electrical systems

Plug into shore power and test every 120V outlet with an outlet tester
Run the air conditioner(s) — cold air within a minute, no grinding Rooftop A/C replacement runs $1,000–$2,000 installed. Weak cooling on a mild day is a red flag.
Check the batteries: age, terminal corrosion, voltage at rest
Test all 12V systems on battery only: lights, fans, pump, slides, jacks
Run the generator under load (A/C on) and check its hour meter and oil Low hours are not automatically good — generators that sit unexercised develop carburetor and seal problems.
Open the breaker/fuse panel: look for scorching, DIY wiring, mismatched breakers

Plumbing & appliances

Pressurize the water system and check every fixture, plus under-sink plumbing Ask the seller to have water in the fresh tank for your visit. A "winterized, can’t test" rig in July deserves suspicion.
Confirm the water heater fires on both propane and electric
Test the furnace — fan, ignition, heat at the vents
Confirm the fridge cools on all its power sources (needs to run in advance) Absorption fridges cost $1,500+ to replace. Ask the seller to run it from the day before; test freezer and fridge temps.
Light every stove burner and the oven
Flush the toilet: pedal action, seal holds water, no floor softness around it
Open and close tank valves; look for leaks or repairs at the sewer outlet
Ask for a propane system leak-down test or have one done at a dealer

Slides, chassis fit & structure

Run every slide-out fully in and out — smooth, level travel, no grinding Watch the roof and floor of the slide as it moves; binding or gouged flooring means adjustment or motor work.
Check slide seals (wipers) for tears and proper contact when extended
Confirm doors and drawers close true — racking suggests frame issues
Verify the yellow weight sticker (CCC) leaves you usable cargo capacity Some floorplans have shockingly little payload left after water and gear. Compare GVWR minus dry weight against your family + stuff.
Match the VIN on the title, frame and registration; check for liens

Paperwork & the deal

Ask for service records, especially roof resealing and bearing repacks
Run the VIN for recalls on NHTSA.gov and check title status
Verify remaining warranty transferability (some transfer, many do not)
Price-check against RV Trader listings and NADA/J.D. Power RV values
For rigs over ~$20k: schedule an NRVIA-certified professional inspection Inspectors carry moisture meters, thermal cameras and no emotional attachment. Sellers who refuse an independent inspection have told you everything.
Use the findings list to negotiate — tires, batteries and reseals are real money

Used RV Inspection Checklist — printed from HitchList. Progress saved online; reprint any time.

Frequently asked questions

What is the biggest red flag when buying a used RV?

Water damage. Soft floors, ceiling stains, musty smell, delaminated sidewalls or fresh "mystery" interior panels all point to moisture intrusion, and structural moisture repair often exceeds the rig’s market value. Cosmetic wear, old tires and dead batteries are negotiation items; hidden water damage is a walk-away item for most buyers.

Should I pay for a professional RV inspection?

For anything beyond a cheap project trailer, yes. NRVIA-certified inspectors spend 6–9 hours with moisture meters and thermal cameras and produce a documented report — typically $300–$600 depending on rig size and inspection level. On a $40,000 fifth wheel, that fee is 1.5% of the price to avoid a five-figure mistake, and the report doubles as a negotiation sheet.

How do I check the age of RV tires?

Find the DOT code on the sidewall; the last four digits are the week and year of manufacture (e.g., 3221 = week 32 of 2021). RV tires should generally be replaced at 5–7 years old regardless of tread depth, because they age out from UV and sitting rather than wearing out. Factor $1,500–$3,000 into your offer if the date codes are past that window.

Is it OK to buy a used RV in winter when it’s winterized?

It adds risk, because you cannot test the plumbing without de-winterizing. Options: ask the seller to de-winterize for inspection (reasonable for a serious buyer), have a professional inspection with the plumbing tested and re-winterized, or negotiate a written contingency that the water system is leak-free. "Trust me, it worked in September" is not a warranty.

What tools should I bring to inspect a used RV?

A bright flashlight, a $10 outlet tester, a tire pressure gauge, painter’s tape to mark findings, and your phone for photos and checking DOT date codes. A pin-type moisture meter (about $30) upgrades your water-damage hunt significantly. Wear clothes for kneeling and crawling — the honest information is under the rig and inside the bays.